Nazir Ganaie
Ryaz Bhat was 23 when he decided to go to Afghanistan. The year was 1987. A succession of booming business seasons and unprecedented tourist arrivals had fired his entrepreneurial spirit. With family history embedded deeply in carpet-weaving, Bhat had developed a fascination for the fabled rugs of the mysterious, rugged land of Afghanistan, and the tribals who wove them.
Bhat hails from old Srinagar. Carpet weaving has been their family business for about 500 years. “My father is an excellent weaver and has created exquisite carpets. I had a natural fascination towards rugs and was drawn to Central Asia,” Bhat said. His parents were scared for his safety, but the young man was determined.
Bhat’s maternal uncle, who lived in Pakistan and dealt in rugs, helped him. Bhat traveled to Pakistan and onwards to Afghanistan to pursue his dream.
Life, he says, is still nomadic in Afghanistan. The tribal rug makers shaped his zeal for business. After learning the craft, Bhat moved back to Pakistan and worked with his uncle. By and by, he established his business in Qatar. Bhat says he even displayed the rugs before the US Pentagon team in 2003. He was invited to the US Embassy to display the tribal rugs and made a good sale.
Bhat is enamored by his fascinating carpet collection. “All my rugs narrate their stories. I have Kashmiri carpets and tribal rugs in my showroom and I treat them as my children. When I sell any rug, I tell my customers to treat them delicately. I call them their guardians,” he said. “They belong to the places which are now trouble hit. But you can find their history in the designs.”
Rug making has been practiced in the Middle East and Central Asia for more than 2,500 years. Woven floor coverings were essential for controlling dust and conserving warmth in harsh climates. Over the centuries, rug making became an essential part of the cultural heritage of these regions. In the 21st century, traditional rug makers still use these same techniques to make rugs and carpets.
Each year Bhat makes his journey to Afghanistan to purchase nomadic rugs. “We go through the most dangerous road, the Afghanistan and Pakistan border. My cousin and I have five gunmen with us. These gunmen are legal and licensed bodyguards who travel with us in two jeeps,” he said. “Everyone knows we have weapons and they do not come near us. I have been doing this for the last 23 years,” he added.
It’s a dangerous expedition to make, but Bhat is determined not to desert the tribes who rely on him for their livelihood. “I am happy to support a good cause. The people are wonderful. They have suffered and they have a difficult life. But that hasn’t killed their love for art. I help the tribals by buying their rugs and giving them a market, even though I risk my life going there,” he said.
When Bhat initially set out on his journey, he knew that he would face many challenges. “Allah was there to guide me. I sailed through troubled waters with His blessings,” he said. “When you decide to do something substantial and your parents are happy and their prayers are with you, no one can stop you Bhat’s homeland Kashmir is a conflict zone and he worked in war-torn areas. “My faith in Allah and in spiritual powers has always guided me in the right direction. My friends and family tell me I should not go to Afghanistan anymore. But I have not stopped. My solitude during my travels brought me closer to God. It shaped my spiritual being. I thank the Almighty for everything that He has bestowed upon me,” said Bhat. God too comes to your help and takes you to the new heights,” he said.
A foreign blogger wrote about Bhat’s shop, Kashmir Handicrafts Emporium: ‘Riyaz Bhat, alias the Rug Man takes you happily on a virtual journey to the tribal heart of Afghanistan’. The name stuck. Bhat said the endearing term of reference helped his business grow. “It has become a trademark now. Everyone knows the Rug Man. I also have a website under that name,” he informed.
Kashmir Handicrafts Emporium dazzles with intricately and colorfully designed carpets. Each rug is wreathed in history and tells a story of a nomadic family. These rugs are like pieces of art. Bhat says these carpets are made mainly by tribal women. The designs are amazingly detailed and in many cases symmetrical. The designs have been passed from mothers to daughters across generations. Depending on size, these rugs can take years to make, with colors sourced from plants and roots used to make natural dyes.
The majority of these nomadic rugs are sourced from Afghanistan. Bhat said the land is lush green with forests, lakes, and streams. These handmade tribal rugs are like a family heirloom. “They are like magnificent paintings. The magic of tribal rugs is that they never look used or worn. You will never have to change it. It will remain with you forever,” he said lovingly.
